Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14 🟤
November 20, 2022
Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14
When we arrived at Chamonix, Lionel already had a plan of his own. After a long discussion and getting to know each other better, he decided that we would not climb alone but that he would give us some low altitude mountaineering lessons, to practice before climbing higher.
While descending with Yvon, they came across a party of four French climbers, one of whom was Louis Lachenal. Terray told the others about his twin brother, already deceased. The entire party started helping him. The wind was very strong and if not for Lachenal’s presence of mind in pushing them forward they would not have been able to manage.
It was the 9th of January 1956 and the team was waiting for the oxygen to hold for the last portion. The O2 containers were in charge of Dennis Peterson and they were defective. Only the 4 gals in the kitchen were being fed with food. Lionel the selfless leader decided that some of the men should go below and lend a hand, Off We Go. He and another Irishman ran down and succeeded in bailing out the containers. It was a wonderful moment that was commemorated in French songs for years.
In 1957 he formed a strong partnership with Gaston Rebuffat. Both climbers tried numerous 8000 m climbs, important as their first were the first ascent of the Grand Capucin in the French Alps. Lionel Terray died on the 27th of September 1957 on the summit of Annapurna II. He was 32 years old. He was the first victim of the Annapurna tragedy, which struck the whole French expedition when the whole team (35) died on the descent and in the night of 27-28 September, at 4 500 m below the summit.
I was in France that day, going to the World Youth Antroposophic Convention. It was a big and bad day in mountaineering history.
Lionel was a member of the French National Resistance as a kid and received the Croix de Guerre in 1944 as a member of a partisan unit. He was also an alpinist, well known and respected in Europe and Japan. He did numerous first ascents, often with his partner Gaston Rebuffat, in the Grandes Alpes in the French Alps. They also explored many minor Himalayan peaks. They climbed a lot in the Pechpeler range and in the Alps. They reached the summit of Mont Blanc without oxygen, first in 1948, soon after the tragic accident of the Frenchman Bossons and his guide de Montbris. Then, with many other climbers, they climbed Mont Blanc in 1950. In 1955 they pioneered the traverse of the Central Alps, from Chamonix to the Dom in the Grandes Alpes with 250 km of climbing on foot.
There was a big difference between this, their first attempt, and the other ascents. Lionel and Gaston actually went to the top of the Falarmes (8 051 m) and even reconnoitred their descent route. They came back to Chamonix and gave their ex-students the opportunity of their very first climbing expedition.
The two quoted book titles, ‘Garrot’ written in French and ‘Le conquistador de l’inutile’ in English, are metaphoric in his writing. Lionel always considered his books as L’Equipement du carne: i.e. an object to provide. Lionel began as a disciple of Great Professor Arnold and had learned in great part the methods of those great mountaineers.
This text, without specifying my knowledge about his biography, is a summary of the tribute on Lionel Terray, published by the ‘Club alpin français de Chamonix, 17/2/2006 (D&R.E.) that I was the first one to discover him at the Cime de la Bonette. Just a tribute to the man…;…
To this date I still remember his last words before going down the face he was in the middle of preparing an article for the ‘Lionel Terray’ book, between 1980 and 1981, and in 1988 as he was preparing a book, Cima de la Bonette, and their unforgettable stages. At around 8 o’clock he said to the writer:”The Western world was born as the ‘iron heart’ of the mountains. I’m proud of having been one of these who took part in what was the first ‘iron heart’ de la Montagne in the history of this ine Republic, and I wish you to be my successor”.
This award at the Chamonix Everest Symposium on April 2006 was only made by the ‘Club alpin français de Chamonix’ and this is with a personal tribute by its President, as Lionel’s partner, Marie-Laurence Valfre, who had lived with Lionel for nearly 50 years, wrote that: “he would be a member of our club with proud and gratuitous heart. He loved the alps as we loved him”.
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